Lighthouses
of the Great Lakes
by Andreas Jordahl Rhude
The lighthouse. It conjures up images of the
heyday of maritime history. Once the "road signs" of the
seas, they have become an endangered, if not threatened, species.
Modern radar and GPS have made the lighthouse obsolete for
commercial shipping. They do, however, continue to serve a function
for smaller craft. The Great Lakes have a rich maritime history and
lighthouses have played a vital role in the success of human
development of the region.
As a navigational aid, lighthouses became the lifelines of water
transportation. Movement of people and merchandise by water was much
easier and less costly than overland travel during the early era of
American expansion. Therefore, making water travel as safe as
possible became a social and economic necessity. Lighthouses became
an integral part of this development.
 
Arusable
Point LIghthouse, Grand Marais, MI
The first navigational "lighthouses" were bonfires built
on shore to guide ships back home. The first actual lighthouse may
have been built on the island of Pharos at the entry to Alexandria
harbor, Egypt. It was built by order of Emperor Ptolemy and it went
into service in 285 BC. The Colossus of Rhodes (270 BC) may also
have served as a functional lighthouse. Romans built at least thirty
substantial lights in the Mediterranean Sea by the third century AD.
The first major lighthouse in America dates to 1716 at Little
Brewster Island in Boston harbor. The redcoats (British) destroyed
it in June 1776 while retreating from the Boston area. The
foundation, however, served as base for a new tower built in 1783.
According to the book Legendary Lighthouses by Grant and Jones, this
is the last remaining lighthouse having a manned keeper.
The first Great Lakes lighthouse was put into service in 1818 at
Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in New York state. Lake Superior
obtained its first lighthouses in 1849, one at Whitefish Point and
another at Copper Harbor --- both in Michigan's Upper Peninsula. By
1852 there were 76 lighthouses on the Great Lakes. Of the 331
lighthouses in America at that time, an impressive twenty-two
percent were on the Great Lakes.
Many Great Lakes lighthouses still stand; others have been left to
decay and crumble. The Green Island lighthouse, in Lake Michigan's
Green Bay, is one that has crumbled. Many of my own early childhood
boating memories, were trips out to Green Island to explore the
lighthouse ruin. I will never forget the thousands of seagulls
flocking around the remaining bones of this building as our family
inched our way to get a closer look at the hulk.
One of the best known Lake Superior lighthouses is the Split
Rock Light. Located on the north shore about 45 miles northeast
of Duluth, it served as a beacon for important shipping traffic from
1910 until it was decommissioned in 1969. The lighthouse sits atop a
rugged cliff, 120 feet above the lake. Construction of the light at
Split Rock was authorized after a notorious Lake Superior storm in
November 1905. Twenty-nine ships were damaged, two sinking off the
Split Rock point. One of these sunken wrecks is still visible, with
the proper conditions, from the cliffs at Split Rock. I have canoed
right over the hulk on one of those rare, placid Lake Superior days.
Today, Split Rock is part of a state park and historic site of the
Minnesota Historical Society. The lighthouse keeper's house and fog
signal buildings have been restored to their 1920s condition and
they are open to the public. It is one of the most visited of any
lighthouse in the nation. A museum operated by the Minnesota
Historical Society sits adjacent to the lighthouse. It has wonderful
interpretive and hands-on interactive displays.
The Apostle Islands, off Wisconsin's north coast of Lake Superior,
are home to several restored lighthouses. Between 1857 and 1891 six
lighthouses were built in the Apostles. All are still in use,
although each has been automated. The Sand
Island light on the western most island of the Apostles, has
been restored and it is open to the public. It is a brownstone
building and tower, erected in 1881. It is constructed from the same
sandstone quarried on this and other Apostle Islands, brownstone
that was shipped across the country to build many cities. Today,
volunteers give tours during the summer season. Like keepers of
yesteryear, they live at this isolated site. For some it is a
welcome reprieve from their hectic 1990s lifestyles.
Raspberry Island lighthouse is a
white clapboard structure built in 1863. It has a fifth order lens.
The Coast Guard placed a solar powered optic lens in the tower in
1957, ending its nearly century of manned service. Both Sand and
Raspberry Island lights are open to the public. Access, is, however,
a bit limited, as they are reached only by boat.
Isle Royale, in Lake Superior, has two lighthouses. The 130 foot
tall Rock of Ages light was completed in 1908. It is located several
miles offshore of the southwestern edge of the island. The huge
700,000 candle power, second order Frensel lens was removed in 1985.
It is on display at Isle Royale National Park. A solar powered lens
has been installed to take place of the original light.
In 1933 the USS George M. Cox went aground in a fog near Rock of
Ages. The 125 passengers and crew were rescued by the light keepers,
spending the night huddled on the tower's spiral stairway.
Andreas
at the lighthouse on Menomonie River
The Passage Island light is on the northeast end of Isle Royale. She
is the northern most American lighthouse on the Great Lakes. She is
used to guide vessels into the port of Thunder Bay, Ontario. This
light was built in 1882.
A unique Lake Superior light is the Stannard Island Light. She is
located fifty miles off shore of Marquette, Michigan. In 1835 the
sailing schooner John Jacob Astor "discovered" a mile long
reef just beneath the surface of the water. The light is named in
honor of Charles Stannard, captain of the ill-fated Astor. In the
midst of a major shipping lane, a lighthouse was completed in 1882.
It took years of planning and $300,000.00 to construct this isolated
light. A huge sum for the 1880s!
While most lighthouses are far removed from civilization, the
Stannard Island light is uniquely so. It is just a small, man-made
island, fifty miles from the nearest land. Psychological effects on
the keepers were intense. One Coast Guard seaman had to be removed
in a straight jacket. Another threatened to swim for shore as he was
so desperate. The lighthouse became automated in 1961. During the
retrofit, an explosion killed one of the three seamen on duty. The
explosion and fire destroyed the living quarters and machine room.
The tower, still standing, withstood the blast.
From my childhood home I could see several Lake Michigan
lighthouses. The Green Island light, several Door County lights, and
the Peshtigo Point light were a few. Just north of Fish Creek in
Door County, Wisconsin is the Peninsula State Park. The Eagle Bluff
lighthouse, built in 1868, still shines. Restored by the local
historical society, she is part of the state park. At ten, Door
County can boast that she has more lighthouses than any county in
the nation.
Each May a two-day event, the Door County Lighthouse Walk,
celebrates the navigational heritage of the peninsula. Special
access is made to all the county's lighthouses during the
celebration. Normally, only Eagle Point lighthouse in Peninsula
State Park is open to the public. Lighthouses have been the welcome
beacons to seafarers for centuries. As technology has progressed the
lighthouse has become outmoded and obsolete. Many have gone the way
of the dinosaur. Many are still in dire straights, such as the Cape
Hatteras light in North Carolina, which is threatened by the sea.
Its survival has now been assured; a ten million dollar effort has
begun to move the 208 foot tall tower further inland from the sea.
As of this printing, the move was successfully completed. The value
of these magnificent structures is undeniable when you consider what
it took, in both dollars and labor, to move a 5,000 ton structure a
distance of 1200 (or so) feet.
A number have been painstakingly maintained and restored. It is
these lighthouses, still available to the public, that hearken back
to a by-gone era --- one of adventure and daring, when the waterways
were the best means of travel, communication, and commerce. With
their passing, a bit of our maritime heritage is lost. Who amongst
us has not warmly looked upon a painting, photograph of a lighthouse
and said to oneself, "That's so idyllic…I'd like to be there
right now."?
Several lighthouse celebrations are held annually in the Apostle
Islands and in Wisconsin's Door County. The Fourth Annual Apostle
Islands Lighthouse Celebration takes place September 8-29, 1999. For
additional information, telephone (800) 779-4487.
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