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Back
by popular demand is this article from the October,
1999
BoatHouse.
Dear Dr. Motorhead,
The surface of the lake, like a mirror, is reflecting the morning
sun through ghost-like images as the mist rises from the warm waters
in the cool morning air. The geese are beginning to gather and flock
but a few yards from my dock. As the squirrels nervously scurry
about the yard hoarding what appears to be a whole winters worth of
acorns bulging their cheeks, fall is arriving to Minnesota. It seems
like only yesterday, we were celebrating Spring’s first arrival,
anticipating the long lazy days of summer. This time of year, we
squander the sun-drenched autumn days with beautiful colors and long
shadows. Only too soon, our boats will be tucked into their storage
areas awaiting Spring’s return.
My mind drifts from the splendor to the inevitable: yielding to
mother nature and preparing for the winter ahead, hauling out and
winterizing before the winter winds and freezing temperatures set
their icy grip. As an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,
I so desire to perform all the necessary winterizing tasks that
insures the safe hibernation of my beautiful craft. My recent Spring
purchase has yet to afford me the experience and knowledge to
perform such tasks. Anxiety ridden, I ask, will my beloved runabout
fall victim to the Y2K winter? Can you share with me your insight,
wisdom and advice as to the proper wintering techniques and correct
storage? I am sure you and your trusted assistant, Piston, must be
so very busy this time of year. In addition, your backlog of letters
awaiting responses must be enormous. Could you find it in your heart
to rejoinder and pontificate to this timely request? If I don't hear
from you, I understand. However, my only recourse in that instance,
is to ship my boat to Florida for the winter. Your insight and
wisdom are beyond reproach. I am at your mercy.
Signed
Prolific Pendocrast III
Dear Pro,
Yikes, get off your knees! It's not becoming to a gentleman of your
apparent stature. I am encouraged that you have the desire not only
to enjoy your beloved runabout, but maintain and preserve it as
well. Working on your own boat is not only a money-saving adventure,
it is also fun and rewarding. While Piston is looking up the words
rejoinder and pontificate in our dictionary, I'll take this time to
answer and give understanding to your query. Get out your pad and
pencil, cause here's the skinny.
1. Don't wait too long to get all this done.
Winter can hit and hit hard as early as late October, making your
job miserable or even impossible.
2. You need to change the oil in your motor. Sometime in late
September early October, when that warm sunny day arrives, get ready
to do your work. Don't procrastinate, it will probably be the last.
Go for a boat ride. This will warm up the engine oil. Warming your
oil thins it out allowing you to remove the old oil with a marine
oil pump. There are a number of different pumps that do the job. Buy
one and enjoy it; this is one of life's little pleasures. The old
oil contains acids that are corrosive and harmful to your engine
during the many months of winter storage. Help your engine and
change that oil. After the oil is changed, run your boat to the boat
landing. This gives the new oil a chance to coat all the internal
engine parts for the long winter ahead.
3. With your boat out of the water, add a few drops of oil to
generator and distributor oil ports. Open up the distributor and
spray WD40, or the like, into the lower part of the distributor.
This will prevent the spark advance counterweights from getting
rusty and stuck.
4. Next, drain the engine of all its water. There are drain plugs on
all engines. They all must be opened and drained completely of
water. If not completed correctly, the result is a cracked block.
Engine manufacturers are different, with varying locations to drain
the water. If you need specific information for your particular
motor, consult Steve Merjanian or Jeff Stebbins for the proper
locations. Once you have opened these drains, especially the drains
located on the engine block, probe a piece of wire into the hole.
Many times a strand of seaweed or a chunk of sand gets lodged in the
hole and won't let the water out. Another neat technique I have
observed Jeff perform, is to start the engine while holding a board
over the exhaust pipe. This forces the exhaust gasses through
the engine, thus blowing out all water and any debris from the
engine. Try it, it's slick.
5. Your next task it to fog the engine. There is only one way to
perform this task. You will need to purchase a can of Stor-X. In my
opinion, no other product does the job. It's just that simple. Start
your engine and set the throttle at 2000 RPM. With the flame
arrestor off the carburetor, slowly pour about half the can into the
carb. The mixture must get sucked into the engine and not just
poured into the carburetor itself. The engine will run rough and
smoke a lot. This is good. Turn off your motor and pour the
remaining amount of Stor-X into the gas tank.
6. Make sure your battery has a good charge, and disconnect the
battery terminals. It's OK to leave the battery in the boat, but
only if it has a good charge.
7. What to do with the gas in the tank? Some say
that a full tank is best. This helps prevent the possibility of
corrosion. Some say an empty tank is best - less hazardous
materials in close-storage quarters. In addition, the gasoline today
is much less stable;
octane breakdown occurs much faster today. Six months of storage
leaves you with a much weaker gasoline. I prefer the empty or
near-empty scenario. Top off the tank with fresh gas in the Spring.
This method has never created any problems for me.
8. It never hurts to stick a rag in the exhaust pipe and the
carburetor openings. This helps keep moisture from entering the
engine through any open or partially opened engine valves.
9. If you do not own a storage trailer, you should. Not only does it
make your job easier, the support the trailer gives your boat is
very beneficial.
10. In conclusion, when you haul your boat earlier
rather than later, you allow your boat to dry out. This is very
important, especially for you who have opted to install a "west
system" bottom.
Dr. Motorhead |
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